A burner that no longer heats, or an oven that stays cold despite a cycle being on, is one of the most common failures on a stove, whether gas or electric. Out of 599 recent service calls for this symptom, here’s what our technicians find most often, and what you can check before calling.
Basic checks you can do yourself
- One element or all of them? If only one burner or just the oven is affected, the cause is usually localized (a switch, an element, an igniter); if nothing works at all, check the power supply first.
- The breaker: even a gas stove needs electricity for the clock, the electronic ignition, and the safety controls. Check your electrical panel before anything else.
- For gas: make sure the supply valve is fully open and the burner ports aren’t clogged with food debris, which can prevent the spark from reaching the gas. Never touch the main valve beyond normal opening and closing.
- Never disassemble the heating element or the igniter yourself: risk of electric shock or gas leak.
The most common causes
Here are the five causes behind the vast majority of the 599 cases analyzed, along with their one-visit resolution rate.
- Igniter: 31.4% of cases resolved in one visit 90.4% of the time. Repair: igniter replacement (specific to gas stoves).
- Control board (PCB): 30.4% of cases resolved in one visit 61.5% of the time. Repair: replacing the electronic control.
- Cooling fan: 19.7% of cases resolved in one visit 61.9% of the time. Repair: replacing the cooling fan, sometimes along with the thermocouple and oven igniter on gas models.
Note: The cooling fan often shares a single service call with parts tied to gas ignition (thermocouple, oven igniter), as shown by the resolution linked to this cause. This overlap suggests that several of these calls involve gas stoves where multiple components were replaced during the same visit, rather than an isolated fan failure in every case.
- Thermostat: 9.3% of cases resolved in one visit 67.9% of the time. Repair: thermostat replacement.
- Oven bake element: 4.5% of cases resolved in one visit 74.1% of the time. Repair: replacing the electric oven’s bake element. This figure, lower than expected for such a common failure, might be explained by the fact that many people replace this element themselves (a simple, inexpensive repair) before calling a technician; the data doesn’t confirm this hypothesis, though. No overlap is visible with the thermostat category, which remains a distinct cause in the reported resolutions.
The igniter and control board alone account for more than six breakdowns out of ten.
When to call a technician
Replacing an igniter or a gas valve is reserved for a certified technician. On the electrical side, testing a control board or a thermostat requires a multimeter and partially disassembling the appliance, with a risk of electric shock if done incorrectly. If your basic checks don’t fix anything, contact a stove repair technician.
Is your stove gas-powered? Our article My Gas Stove Won’t Light covers the checks specific to ignition. Frozen panel or error code? See My Stove’s Control Panel Is Not Responding. Request an estimate to book a visit.
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FAQ
My oven doesn’t seem to reach the temperature I set, what could that be?
Even if the oven produces heat, a faulty temperature sensor or thermostat can prevent it from reaching the set point accurately. Unusually slow cooking or food that never quite turns out as expected is often a sign of this issue, rather than a total loss of heat.
How can I tell if the problem is the temperature sensor rather than the heating element?
If the element glows normally during preheating but the oven cooks too fast, too slowly, or inconsistently from one use to the next, the sensor or thermostat is more likely at fault than the element itself, which would simply produce no heat at all if it were defective.
Can a damaged door seal prevent the oven from reaching the right temperature?
Yes. A worn, cracked, or poorly fitted seal lets heat escape, which extends cooking time and can prevent the oven from reaching the set temperature, especially at higher settings. It’s also generally a less expensive repair than an element or a thermostat, worth checking before assuming a bigger failure.
