What to Do When My Washer Is Making Noise

An unusual washer noise can seem alarming. But the exact moment it appears — during spin, during wash, during drain — almost always points to the diagnosis before a technician even arrives.

At Service 2000, our technicians have handled this symptom nearly 1,500 times between 2021 and 2025. Here’s how to read the situation before calling.

Key takeaways

• In about 7% of cases, no part needs replacing — the washer is unlevel or overloaded.
• Noise during spin is the most common and almost always points to a worn internal mechanical part.
• The bearing and shaft are the most common causes — about 37% of service calls.
• Suspension springs and shock absorbers are responsible in about 10% of cases.
• The transmission is involved in about 10% of cases.
• Other causes (pump, belt and pulleys, other): about 26% of cases combined.
• Maytag, LG, Whirlpool, and Samsung are the most represented brands for this symptom in our data.
• 95% of service calls for this symptom end with a completed repair.

What to Do Immediately When the Washer Is Making Noise

Before calling, three simple checks to run in order.

1. Check the leveling. An unlevel washer produces significant vibration and noise — particularly during spin. Place a level on top of the appliance and adjust the feet until it’s stable on all four legs. This adjustment alone resolves the problem in a meaningful number of cases.
2. Check the load. An unbalanced load — a sheet wrapped around the drum, a load that’s too light or too heavy — creates significant vibration during spin. Redistribute the laundry, reduce the load, and restart. If the noise disappears, it’s a usage issue.
3. Check for a stuck object. A coin, a button, or a thread caught between the drum and the tub produces a characteristic rubbing or clicking sound. Turn the drum by hand to locate the source.

What Are the Most Common Causes When a Washer Is Noisy?

Based on nearly 1,500 service calls for this symptom between 2021 and 2025, here’s what our technicians find.

Bearing, Shaft, and Spider

These parts are the most common cause — about 37% of service calls. They support the drum’s rotation and wear down gradually over several months, often on heavily loaded front-load washers. The noise starts subtle during spin, then worsens into a rumble or a loud metallic sound. On some models, the spider — the spider-shaped part that holds the tub — fails first, requiring replacement of the entire tub.

Suspension Springs and Shock Absorbers

Responsible in about 10% of service calls. These parts absorb the tub’s movement during spin. As they wear out, the tub gains play, knocks against the walls, and produces significant vibration. This issue is more common on top-load washers — the suspension springs sag over time.

Transmission

Involved in about 10% of cases. On top-load washers, the transmission handles the switch between wash mode and spin mode. A dull thud or grinding noise at the start of the spin cycle can indicate a transmission nearing the end of its life.

Drain Pump

Produces noise in about 5% of service calls classified as noisy. A pump nearing the end of its life emits a characteristic humming or grinding sound while draining water — distinct from the mechanical noise of the spin cycle.

Belt and Pulleys

Responsible in about 3% of cases. A worn or improperly tensioned belt produces a squeal during spin. This issue is more common on belt-driven top-load washers.

When Does the Noise Appear?

The timing of the noise directly points to the diagnosis.

Noise Only During Spin

This is the most common case. It almost always indicates an internal mechanical part — bearing, shaft, spider, or transmission. The louder and more metallic the noise, the more advanced the wear.

Noise During Both Wash and Spin

If the noise is present at all speeds, suspension springs or shock absorbers are often the cause. An object caught between the drum and the tub also produces this type of continuous noise.

Noise Only During Drain

Points to the drain pump. A humming or grinding sound while draining water indicates a pump that’s failing or partially blocked.

Vibration and the Appliance Moving

Points first to a leveling or loading issue. If the problem persists after adjustment, the suspension springs should be checked.

When Should You Call a Technician?

If the basic checks don’t resolve it, call when:

• The noise gets progressively worse from one cycle to the next
• The noise is accompanied by significant vibration or the appliance moving
• A loud metallic noise appears during spin — a sign of a badly worn bearing or shaft
• The washer makes noise and no longer completes its cycle properly
• An object seems stuck but isn’t accessible

A badly worn bearing can eventually cause damage to the tub — addressing it early generally keeps repair costs down.

Repair or Replace a Noisy Washer?

Repair cost depends on the part involved. Replacing suspension springs or shock absorbers is generally inexpensive. Replacing a bearing along with the shaft and tub is a bigger job — on an appliance under 8 years old in good condition, repair remains the right call in most cases. Beyond that, the decision depends on overall condition and estimated cost. Service 2000 will tell you plainly if the repair isn’t worth it.

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